Medieval Dubrovnik

"Hvala" Cindy, Nancy, Fellow Pilgrims,

and People of Medjugorje!

I

This view reminded me of my village Valun on the island of Cres.
 Our home faced the bay along the Adriatic Sea similar to this
 photo that I snapped along the Dalmatian coast.

     
   This was my first visit to Medjugorje, Bosnia-Hercegovina.  I came as a pilgrim like many others and left more spiritually inspired than when I had arrived because of my fellow pilgrims and the natives of this once little-known village.  I am a native of Croatia and came to the United States with my parents, two sisters and one brother several decades ago. The last time my younger sister and I visited relatives on the island that all of us were born, was one summer between college.  It was impossible to visit anyone this trip because of the distance.  Croatia is wide at the top and becomes narrower moving southward.  To get to our island after the pilgrimage would have taken nearly 12 hours.  It would have taken a bus ride to northern Croatia, a car ride to the island of Krk, a ferry to the island of Cres, and then a car ride through the mountains to our village of Valun along the Adriatic Sea.  Now that I am older I don't enjoy traveling alone.

   This pilgrimage invigorated my faith and I am confident that those who come here, whether their faith is strong or lacking in spirituality, will experience God in a completely different way.  If you have the opportunity to join a pilgrimage to Medjugorje, I recommend that you travel with pilgrimage leaders Cindy and Nancy.  They provide you with an inordinate number of possibilities to grow spiritually.  If you begin with the September entry "Flight to Frankfurt" and go forward day by day, you will understand that this pilgrimage is full of spiritual renewal. 

   For those who are reading a blog for the first time, begin at the bottom and then click on older posts to begin at the very beginning of the first page.  When you are on the first page, go to the bottom of the page, find the first entry and work your way up to read what happened in chronological order.  I hope you get to know and love Medjugorje, Bosnia-Hercegovina and Croatia and their wonderful people through this blog.

         

Along the Adriatic Coast

   We had to travel past a check point at the Bosnian/Croatian border.  Our passports were collected for inspection by the border patrol  and we were told that no photographs were allowed.  I wanted so much to take a photo of a sign that read "Hrvatska/EU" and the Croatian flag.  That sign meant that we would soon be crossing into Croatia.  "Hrvatska" is the Croatian word for "Croatia".  The "EU", as many of you know, stands for "European Union" to which Croatia belongs.  While we waited for our passports, little Gabrielle, the youngest pilgrim, labeled Father Adam a "troublemaker". She had grown close to Father Adam during the trip because he would taunt her like an older brother.

Irrigation fields in Croatia

This may have been the Rijeka Cetina.

View of farmlands from
atop a mountain

Wind turbines on one of the
islands in the Adriatic Sea

   Our bus trip continued southward, down the Dalmatian coastline with a view of the Adriatic Sea. We crossed a beautiful river.  It may have been the Rijeka Cetina (Cetina River).  I really don't know. Nonetheless, it was a picturesque river.  We climbed into the mountains where you could survey the neat farmlands and irrigation fields below.  Then, as we traveled down the mountains, we saw beautiful coastal villages that reminded me of my beloved Valun.  I also saw wind turbines in the distance on one of the islands.  A church was an integral part of each village.  You could easily distinguish the church because of its towering spire, no matter how small the church may have been.

Churches are the heart of Croatian villages.

Mary Grace and Steve lunching
at Dubrovnik Harbor.

   The Adriatic Sea was as beautiful as I remember it on my last trip ... clear, sparkling, and an azure blue. Several of the roads we traveled had the names of saints.  Even our hotel, Hotel Ivank in Dubrovnik was located at 21 St. Michael Road (Put Svetog Mihajla 21).  We arrived at our hotel around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, checked in and freshened up a bit.  Several of us got a map of Stari Grad, the old walled city of Dubrovnik, a UNESCO Heritage site.  The words "Stari Grad" are Croatian for "Old City".  I had never been to Dubrovnik but I had read a great deal about the old historic district that lay behind those walls.  As a few of us opened our maps of Old Dubrovnik, I pointed out the old Franciscan Pharmacy that has been in use since 1317 and is still in use today.  I thought that should be an historic site that no one should miss since it is nearly 700 years old!  I knew what I wanted to see, circled those items on my map and opted not to eat lunch when we got to old Dubrovnik so that I could visit as many historic sites as possible in the short time we had for exploring and eating before meeting at Crkva Sv. Vlaho (St. Blaise Church) for Mass.  

Pile Gate of Old Dubrovnik and Sveti Vlaho

Pile Gate into Old Dubrovnik

   The oldest gate to this medieval city was blanketed with tourists on the drawbridge. I spied a stone image of Sv. Vlaho (St. Blaise) adorning a niche above the city gates.  I recalled reading how towns during the Middle Ages dedicated the cities to a certain saint to invoke that saint's protection over their city from any harm.  Dubrovnik was no different and chose Sv. Vlaho as its patron saint.  According to a story that was recorded in the year 971 A.D., on the nights of February 2nd and 3rd, Venetian ships anchored in the harbor of Dubrovnik under the pretense of replenishing their ships with food and water before moving eastward.  Fra Stojko (Father Stojko), the parish priest found the doors of St. Stephen Church wide open and went inside to investigate.  When he entered the church he had a vision; he found an elderly bearded man who warned him that the Venetians were preparing to attack the city.  This aged man told Fra Stojko that he had kept the Venetians at bay the past few nights.  When the priest asked the old man who he was, the bearded man replied, "Vlaho" ("Blaise").  The

Image of Sv. Vlaho
above the Pile Gate

following day the priest reported his vision to the city council.  The city immediately closed its gates and manned its walls.  When the Venetians saw that Dubrovnik was ready to defend itself from their surprise attack, the Venetians pulled up anchor, abandoned their plans, and left the harbor.  Since that day in 971 A.D., St. Blaise has been the patron saint of Dubrovnik.  Today you will find images of St. Blaise carved all over the city.  You will find them not only carved in stone along the walls in niches, but in other places, as well.  Images of St. Blaise can be found on altar reliefs and goldsmith's coins minted in Dubrovnik.  You will find that these carved images all have St. Blaise holding a model of the walled city of Dubrovnik.
   A year after Fra Stojko's vision the city held a procession on February 3rd to honor Sveti Vlaho (St. Blaise).  A procession honoring the city's patron saint has continued every February 3rd, the feast of St. Blaise, since 972 A.D., even during the Communist era of the republic.  Relics of the 3rd century martyr are carried through the main street by the bishop of Dubrovnik, who is joined by other bishops and priests, so that residents and visitors alike can venerate the remains of the saint who has protected this city for more than a 1000 years. Residents come dressed in their regional costumes and carry their churches' flags.  The procession ends at Crkva Sv. Vlaho (St. Blaise Church) where flag bearers wave their specific church flag in a maneuver that dates back centuries and never touches the ground.  You can view a ten minute video of the procession in Dubrovnik on the feast of St. Blaise.  Three-fourths of the way through the video you will hear the national instrument, the tambura, in the background.  The tambura is a stringed instrument that is a cross between a mandolin and a Russian balalaika.  Click on the following link to see Dubrovnik on this special feast day and hear the sounds of Croatia. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZKCw1OWe5g

Onofrio Fountain

   Once inside the walls you are greeted by an Onofrio fountain that was built in

The larger of the two Onofrio
fountains is near the Pile Gate.

Holy Savior Church is to the left
of the main Onofrio fountain.

1438. What's interesting about this fountain is that it has a cupola and that it was the ending point of a complex aqueduct system that started more then 7 miles outside old Dubrovnik. More than 600 years later, it is still used to refresh visitors. The fountain is right across from Holy Savior Church. The small church was built in 1520 shortly after an earthquake hit the area.  It was built in thanksgiving to God for sparing the city from grave damages. The front piece over the church entrance documents this in Latin.

Stara Ljekarna

   My next stop was the Stara Ljekarna (the old Franciscan pharmacy whose doors are pictured on the right).  The Friars Minor pharmacy was begun by the Franciscans in 1317 and continues to operate as a pharmacy to this day.  It is one of the oldest functioning pharmacies in the world.  The Franciscan order is known for its care of the poor and sick; however, this pharmacy also served as a public pharmacy which provided the friars with a steady income.  I took a photo of the pharmacy door and then realized that photos were not allowed.  Oops!  I'm sure it meant the inside of the pharmacy for privacy reasons ...  for both its customers and its contents.

Klaustar/Franciscan Monastery/Museum

   The Franciscans arrived in Dubrovnik in 1234 and built a monastery outside the city walls.  But the threat of war in 1317 caused the Franciscans to abandon their monastery, but not before completely demolishing it in order to keep the enemy from using it.  So they built another monastery inside the walls of Dubrovnik for protection.

Historic religious items

   The cloister was built by Croatian architect Mihoje Brajkov in 1360 in the late

Cloister of double columns
looking  into garden

Romanesque style.  As I walked past the gates to the cloister area of the monastery which is also a museum today, I began to take pictures. Suddenly, the gentleman who I thought was the security guard stood up from behind his desk and approached me. He told me that there was an entrance fee.  When I spoke to him in Croatian and asked him the amount of the fee, he just waved me on and told me it was free.  I asked him again for the amount of the entrance fee and told him that I would be happy to pay for my way in. He just winked and told me to go on.  Other pilgrims who had visited the Klaustar were charged an entrance fee unless they were priests or religious who automatically were allowed in without cost.  Obviously, the gentleman at the desk must have been pleased to hear someone speak to him in his native tongue and allowed me in without charge.

   The Monastery/Museum houses an enormous collection of religious articles, paintings by master artists, handwritten documents, an
illuminated Psalter, and apothecary items used over 700 years ago.  It has a rich collection of rare books and manuscripts.  There is even a framed poster which features the signature, date, and an image of the flag of the dignitary's homeland who has visited the pharmacy museum.  I was able to pick out the signatures of Jacqueline Kennedy and Dick Cheney, but I had trouble reading some of the other names.  One area had the pharmacy set up as it may have looked in 1317 complete with decorative measuring jars, mortars, pestles, and even a portrait of the monk pharmacist.  I saw another area tucked away in a corner that had fragments of stone.  I imagine that was from the 1667 earthquake.  But destruction of more recent times was also preserved on one of the museum walls.  A circular frame directed your eye to an actual hole in the wall caused by a missile shot during the 1991 Croatian War of Independence.  Dubrovnik, as well as other major Croatian cities were bombarded during this war causing extensive damage to historic buildings and numerous human casualties.  When the war ended in 1995, since Dubrovnik was a UNESCO Heritage site, repairs using original methods and materials were used to make all repairs to keep with the original design.  This war
was the result of regional wars when some wanted a unified country of several republics known as Jugoslavia, while others wanted independent republics as they are now.

One of Zoran Marinovic's
black and white photographs

   I also found a tomb under my feet.  I am assuming that it is the tomb of one of the monks who lived in the monastery.  It was dated 1466.  I attempted to read the Latin inscription.  It was the tomb of a man named Blaise Nicholas Dechaboga.  I knew I had to take a picture of it since our first grandchild is named Blaise and our second son is named Nicholas.  Wandering further I came across a contemporary photographer's work.  Zoran Marinovic's black and white photographs of the children of Congo were stark and heart-wrenching. These children live in a country rich with diamonds and gold, but suffer from poverty and hunger because of the warlords.  The movie "Blood Diamond" came to mind which made the photographs even more disturbing.  How can humanity be so violent and cruel?    
   I found my way out of the Franciscan Monastery/Museum and went past the gentleman at the desk.  He looked at me and winked as if to say, "Your free admission into the museum is our secret!"

Stradun/Placa Street

Main street of Stari Grad

Regional clothing

   From the Franciscan Cloister I stepped outside into the main area know as the Stradun or Placa Street. This is the main business area of the old city.  The limestone street has become polished over time by the constant use of its residents and ancient traders of years gone by.  The city originally was separated by a channel.  The natives of the Roman-Greek settlement lived on an island to the west and the Croatian-Slav settlement lived on the mainland.  Shallow waters separated the two settlements until about the 11th century when the channel was drained and filled to form one community. That was nearly 1000 years ago!      The old city was a Venetian stronghold for approximately 150 years, from 1205 until 1358.  But historical records attest to a stone wall around the city as early as the 8th century.  Through the years the walls that surround Dubrovnik, and the towers that are a part of the walls, have changed as new architectural designs were used to fortify the city even further. I remember reading how several Croatian architects changed the design of the towers and gates over the years to make the city even more impenetrable, especially after the Venetians left.  The walls of Dubrovnik have never been breached. That is a testament to the superior construction of the walls and towers.  The walls range in thickness from 13 to 20 feet (depending whether they face land or water), are more than a continuous mile long, and are as high as 82 feet in certain places.

Sponza Palace

The Sponza Palace is the former customs house where all financial matters took place. The palace was begun in 1516 and completed in 1522, almost 200 years after Venetian

The Sponza Palace is at the end of this street.  The city bell tower is to the right.
The Rector's Palace is in the foreground on the right.

supremacy left the republic.  The seat of several state offices, including the mint, bank, treasury, and armory were located here.  The chief architect of the palace was a Croatian by the last name of Milicevic.  Two master stone mason brothers by the name of Andrijic constructed the portico and the ornamental sculptures found on the building.
   The Latin inscription over one arch testifies to the seriousness and accuracy of the city-state's measures.  It translates: "Our weights do not permit cheating or being cheated.  When I measure the commodities the Lord measures with me."
   The Sponza Palace was the only building not damaged during the 1667 earthquake which is evidence of its superior construction.  Today, the Sponza Palace houses the city-state's National Archives.

City Belfry

The figures have hammered
the bell for centuries.

   The bell tower lies in the eastern part of the city near the Sponza Palace.  It was constructed in 1444 by three Croatian master craftsmen.  The bell was completed in 1509 by world renowned Croatian bell maker of the time Ivan Krstitelj of Rab. Two bronze soldiers have been striking the bell every hour on the hour since the 15th century.  The original bronze figures are housed in the national archives in the Sponza Palace.  The current figures in the tower are bronze like the original, only smaller.  The two bronze figures are popularly known as Maro and Baro and commonly referred to as "zelenice" (the "green ones" in Croatian).  The bell tower was not damaged during the earthquake of 1667 but began to lean in the 20th century.  It was rebuilt in 1929 in the same style as the original.

Rector's Palace

    The Rector's Palace was first built in the 11th century before the Venetian influence on the republic.  It was the seat of the state administration and the Minor Council.  It was here that the rector carried out his stately duties and resided during his term in office.  A rector was elected by the Great Council and remained in office for one month.  The rector had to remain in the Rector's Palace during his term in office unless he was on official state business for the republic.  The rector's position was set up in this manner so that no one person could usurp power.  The rector was held in high esteem, however, his political power was limited. He was considered the first among equals.

 One of the carved capitals

Imposing columns of
the Rector's Palace

  The Rector's Palace was completely destroyed or heavily damaged throughout its history.  A fire gutted the building in 1435.  A gunpowder explosion in the palace armory heavily damaged the building in 1463.  It was rebuilt by Italian architects in both instances.  Later changes were made by 3 Croatian architects, particularly after a strong earthquake in 1520 and the great earthquake of 1667 which damaged the palace extensively. Each architect had his own style when repairing or reconstructing the building so now there is a perfect blend of styles.  Its capitals with figures of cherubs and other representations along with the sculptured ornamentation make this building an interesting study of styles.
   Today the Rector's Palace is a cultural history museum set up with furnishings as they may have looked when the rector once lived there for a month.  You will see old master paintings, gold coins minted by the republic, many portraits and coats of arms of the noble families, and even the original keys to the city gates.

The Assumption of the Blessed Mother Cathedral

Titian's "The Assumption"

   The original Dubrovnik Cathedral was constructed in the 7th century.  It was only after renovations to the current cathedral in 1981 that experts found another cathedral underneath the one that stands today.  They back dated it to the 7th century. Experts now believe that Dubrovnik was a vibrant urban settlement for generations which grew to be a strong and influential community long before its Venetian influences.  The original cathedral was destroyed in the

Image of Stjepan Gradic

earthquake of 1667.  Native son Stjepan Gradic, who was the custodian (later rector) of the Vatican Library at the time of the earthquake, recommended Italian architect Buffalini to rebuild the Dubrovnik Cathedral.  The Assumption of the Blessed Mother Cathedral was completed in 1713.
   The cathedral contains many relics including the arm and head of St. Blaise (Sv. Vlaho).  The reliquaries of St. Blaise are exquisite examples of the superior craftsmanship of Dubrovnik's goldsmiths of the 11th and 12th centuries.  The relics of St. Blaise are carried through the main street in a procession on his feast day February 3rd.
   There is an extensive collection of paintings and carvings by masters in the cathedral, but the one that catches your eye is Titian's "The Assumption".  It sits over the main altar and is surrounded by four panels, two on either side.  The upper panels depict angels.  The lower left panel appears to have St. Blaise holding

Assumption of the Bl. Mother Cathedral

a model of the city of Dubrovnik, but I am not positive since my eyes aren't as good as they once were.
    The people of Dubrovnik endeavored to not allow human weaknesses to tempt their Catholic morality. As such, the cathedral treasury could only be accessed when three different people, each with a different key, were present.  The archbishop, the cathedral rector, and the secretary of the republic each had a distinct key.

Crkva Sveti Vlaho

St. Blaise sits atop
Crkva Sv. Vlaho.

   There is one place that I knew that I had to visit other than the Franciscan Pharmacy and that was St.

Gilded statue of Sv. Vlaho

Blaise Church (Crkva Sv. Vlaho). Dubrovnik's patron saint has been honored here since 971 A.D. when the city was dedicated to him.  A procession in his honor was begun a year later and has continued for more than a millennium on February 3rd.  The original church was built in 1368 and was greatly damaged by the great earthquake of the region and then completely destroyed by a fire in 1706.  Venetian architect Gropelli completed the current church in 1715 in the Baroque style.  The interior of the church is also Baroque.  The main altar was the most interesting piece for me.  It holds a 15th century gilded statue of St. Blaise with a model of the city before the 1667 earthquake.  The statue is important for two reasons  First, the statue depicts what old Dubrovnik looked like before the great earthquake; and secondly, the statue dates back to the 1400's when the goldsmiths of Dubrovnik were sought after craftsmen.  The gilded statue went unscathed during the great earthquake (1667) and later a fire (1706) that destroyed the church. The people of Dubrovnik interpreted this as a sign and a miracle.   Is it any wonder that the people of Dubrovnik love Sv. Vlaho (St. Blaise)?

The uncorrupted body of St. Silvan

   To the right of the main altar in a glass case is the uncorrupted body of St. Silvan who was an early church martyr.  His body was brought to St. Blaise Church in Dubrovnik from Rome in 1874.

   I arrived early for our group's Mass at Crkva Sv. Vlaho.  I came in quietly because a woman was rehearsing when I stepped in.  I thought that perhaps she was preparing to sing at Mass, but once Mass got started she was not there. I did enjoy her singing while I sat quietly near the front and just closed my eyes to capture the peace of the moment as I waited for the other pilgrims to arrive for Mass.

Preparing to Go Home

   Can you guess which letter we don't have in the Croatian alphabet by looking at this menu?  Hint:  They have substituted two other letters in its place.  

   We returned to our hotel from old Dubrovnik and had our evening meal.  It was buffet style.  I had a squid and rice dish.  I love seafood!  Later I picked up my passport from the front desk and headed back to our room.  I wanted to get to bed early since we had to get up at 3:15 A.M. in order to eat breakfast and get to the airport in plenty of time.  The Dubrovnik airport is just a half hour ride from the hotel but we had an early flight.

   Once we arrived at the Dubrovnik airport we found out that our flight was going to be late.  It may have been due to the winds.  I noticed that when a pilot had come in from the tarmac the flight attendant had trouble keeping the door open without the wind nearly ripping the door off.  I know the winds can be furious along the Adriatic coast during the fall and winter months.
   We didn't have too much trouble going through the security at Dubrovnik and Zagreb, but when we got to Amsterdam, they not only questioned us twice, but they did a "pat down" search as well as a full body scan.    
   We're on our way home.  In a few hours I will be reunited with my family.    

   

Monthly Apparition and Good-bye to Medjugorje

View of Hotel Mir from around
the bend in the road.

 Mirjana at Apparition Hill  

   Mirjana, one of the visionaries had an apparition this morning.  Father Joe got up very early in order to beat the crowd of pilgrims
who numbered in the thousands.  His dedication got him to the top of Apparition Hill (Crnica Broda or Podbrdo in Croatian) where Mirjana receives her monthly message from Mary.  I decided to go over to the Risen Christ area after breakfast, instead.  It is located behind St. James ("Sveti Jakov") Church.  On my way to the Risen Christ, I met Fr. Adam who was returning from the Apparition Hill area because it was too crowded and impossible to see anything.  I told him I was going to the Risen Christ to view Apparition Hill from a distance.  My thinking was that you could see Apparition Hill from this vantage point should anything unusual occur, albeit, from a distance.  A few others had the same idea as well, and since they did not number in the thousands, my view wasn't obstructed at the least.  The only disappointment was that I wanted to be alone praying at the foot of the Risen Christ before Mary's apparition to Mirjana.  I waited in line with a tissue to wipe the mysterious oil that sometimes pours out of one of the legs of Jesus.  One kind Croatian man took my tissue and wiped the oil for me since I wasn't tall enough to reach it.  I prayed briefly in the Risen Christ area before walking over toward the section that faced Apparition Hill.  I waited with many others in the warm, very bright, early morning sun.  It was beautiful.  No one spoke.  A peace lingered in the air.  I saw Apparition Hill in the distance and I learned of Mary's message to the world via Mirjana later that day.   Our Lady's message to Mirjana was in part " ...  Give me your open, purified hearts and I will fill them with the love for my Son.  His love will give meaning to your life and I will walk with you ..."  Is it any wonder that I felt a sense of peace as I faced Apparition Hill but could hear nothing?

Exterior of Hotel Mir facing
the main entrance. 

Dobar Put!

 Our bags had to be down in the lobby by 10:30 A.M. so we could be ready to board the bus taking us to Dubrovnik.  I had brought my bags down before breakfast and made sure that I could be back at the hotel from the Risen Christ before our departure.  What a sight it was as our bus began to move away from our hotel, Hotel Mir!  The hotel staff and Roza (the Croatian whose family owns hotels in Medjugorje and who is a close friend of the visionary Vicka) had lined up outside the hotel to wish us all a fond farewell.  Imagine the staff of your hotel lined up at the main entrance bidding you an affectionate departure.  It was like family seeing you off as you continued on your travels.  I couldn't retrieve my camera out of its bag and get the camera lens cover off quickly enough to shoot a photograph of the entire party as they were lined up waving their goodbyes; however, that tender moment is forever etched in my mind and in my heart as they wished us "dobar put" (literally "good trip" in Croatian).

Patrick and Nancy's Castle

Morning Routines

   This morning Daffine and I stopped at the Franciscan Information Center to see if anyone had turned in her cell phone which she had lost two days ago.  Yesterday she stopped in but she found that the woman wasn't very helpful.  I went with her this morning so that I could speak to the woman in Croatian.  Today the woman looked in an area where lost items were turned in but she found nothing.
   We went to the 10 o'clock Mass.  A monsignor from New Zealand was the main celebrant.  He was a young priest so I was rather surprised that he was a monsignor .  His homily centered around St. Therese of Lisieux, "The Little Flower".  He shared how he really didn't like her as a saint when he was a young boy since she wasn't "macho" enough to play ball like a rugby player.  Besides that, she just prayed daily for the missions.  "How hard was that task?" he thought to himself as a child.  He certainly didn't think that such a simple task deserved sainthood.  Then years later, Pope John Paul II declared St. Therese of Lisieux a Doctor of the Church.  That disturbed this priest even further since she only lived to be 24 years old.  How could anyone so young be a Doctor of the Church?  Then this New Zealand monsignor realized that St. Therese of Lisieux was a model of prayer life for people of all ages.  

Medjugorje Castle

Entrance to "The Medjugorje Castle".

 If you are from the village of Medjugorje in Bosnia, all you have to say is "the castle" in English and cab drivers and other natives know exactly the place you are speaking of.  We took taxis after Mass from Sveti Jakov to The Medjugorje Castle.  This medieval-looking structure was built sometime in the 1990's when Patrick and Nancy Latta moved from Canada to Medjugorje.  The Medjugorje Castle is a retreat center built by Patrick and Nancy, free of charge to visiting priests, women religious, seminarians, and college students on a pilgrimage to Medjugorje.

Patrick telling us his story of conversion.

   Patrick had a powerful conversion from his very materialistic lifestyle.  He began his testimonial by telling us that he had been an

The retreat center at the castle.

extremely successful businessman in western Canada.  He had been raised Catholic and attended Catholic schools. He hated school, quit when he was only 16 years old, and took a job at a car dealership washing cars. He was so personable with the customers on the dealership lot that in ten years he owned the company.  After a while, Patrick's impressive salesmanship helped him acquire additional car dealerships.  He was one of the most successful  businessmen in western Canada.  However, his spiritual life was a void.  He lost interest in the Catholic faith, the Catholic church, and God when he left school.  The almighty dollar was his god and he made sure that his children knew this.  Whenever a problem would arise, Patrick used his wealth to fix it.  On weekends he would fly himself and his employees to Las Vegas, all expenses paid.  At this point in his testimonial he asked the pilgrims in attendance to guess how much it would have cost him to wine and dine about 30 of his employees.  As some pilgrims attempted to come up with a figure, he held up currency in one hand and proceeded to tell us that it cost him two marriages, abuse of drugs, abuse of alcohol, and a dysfunctional family.

One view of the room in which Patrick spoke  to us.

Another view of the same room.

   Patrick credited his mother's prayers for him for many, many years and a book about Mary's messages from Medjugorje that his third wife, Nancy, a Croatian, had given him to read, as the turning point in his spiritual life.  When he opened up the book he searched for the shortest sentence he could find.  It read, "I call you to conversion for the last time."  Then something incredible happened.  He felt that the message was directed to him and he began to cry uncontrollably.  It was this epiphany that caused him to sell all his car dealerships and move with Nancy to Medjugorje to begin a spiritual transformation.

Finding My Way Back to the Hotel

View of gravel pathway as I was leaving
the Medjugorje Castle. 

 A friend who had gone to Medjugorje a few years earlier had asked

me to extend his hello to Patrick and Nancy if our group did visit "The Castle".  As we were exiting the room where Patrick had spoken to us, I wanted to make sure to extend the hello from my friend using his first and last

A vineyard along the countryside.

Animals had no fences to confine them.

I saw a village in the distance.

name. While I waited in line to say a few words      to Patrick, the        rest of the              pilgrims in my         group had gone      to visit the              chapel in the          retreat center,          unbeknownst to me. Unfortunately, since Patrick and Nancy meet thousands of pilgrims throughout the year, Patrick didn't recognize the name of my friend and I had no idea where the rest of our group had gone.  When I was finished with my brief chat with Patrick, I looked around hoping to get a glimpse of a familiar face, but all were strangers.  I waited patiently for a few more minutes.  When I didn't see any familiar faces I took the tree-lined gravel pathway leading out of the castle and continued on a dirt road through the countryside, not really knowing if I was headed in the right direction.  As I traveled this dirt road, I saw a village in the distance.  I recalled that the group was going to have lunch at a pizzeria but I didn't know the name of the eatery nor the town in which it was located.  You can imagine my relief when I finally entered the village I had seen in the distance and spied a pizzeria.  I was sure the group had gone ahead of me and that they were here waiting for me.  Regrettably, none of the other pilgrims were to be found in the outdoor dining area nor inside.  I walked a little further and tried to use the GPS on my phone, but to no avail.  I stopped at a shop and spoke to them in Croatian asking for directions to Hotel Mir.  They were unfamiliar with the hotel.  I asked them for directions to the village of Bijakovici.  They pointed me down a paved road.

Some of the village roads were very narrow, however, vehicles maneuvered the winding streets.

I saw little shrines along the road.

It was a very hot day and I began to get extremely thirsty.  Every once

Another shrine I saw on my way
back to the hotel.

in a while I would stop and ask for directions to Hotel Mir to make sure that I was traveling in the right direction, but those of whom I inquired did not know of the place, so I began to ask directions to Crkva Sveti Jakov (St. James Church) since I knew that I could find my way back to the hotel from the church.  All knew of Crkva Sveti Jakov and I finally found my way back to the hotel.  I welcomed the comfort of the cool air in the lobby and went over to the bar area to purchase a bottle of sparkling mineral water. I took the bottle of water to my room, found the bag of peanuts I had brought with me, and sat on the side of my bed nourishing my body.  The peanuts satisfied my hunger until supper.

When I saw this four o'clock plant on my way back to Bijakovici I knew that it wasn't four o'clock yet because the blossoms were still closed.  Mom use to have this flowering plant in both the front and back yards.

Adoration After Dark

   We went to Adoration after supper.  I was anxious to get there so I

Our priests and the Franciscans
during Adoration. 

A daytime view of the seating area
for outdoor Adoration and
outdoor Mass. 

   left with Father        Adam.  Not too        long after that       Father Joe joined   us along the way.    A short while          later,   Irma came    along.    She and    I walked            together as Fathers Adam and Joe went on ahead to prepare for Adoration .  When we finally arrived at the outdoor area, Irma and I had trouble finding seats that were close together.  Since thousands of people come to Adoration we wanted to ensure that we sat in proximity of each other so that we could leave together after Benediction.  As we headed back, past the paved area, toward the gravel area, Andy (another pilgrim) approached us to let us know that there were two seats nearby.  The benches were approximately where Irma and I had found seating in the past, but somehow had overlooked this space in the dark.  We were thankful to Andy for finding us this seating although much of the time was spent kneeling on concrete, not sitting.  After Adoration, Irma, my "Adoration buddy" and I walked arm in arm back to our hotel.

Cenacolo Community

The sign to the Cenacolo Community is written in Italian since Mother Elvira is an Italian nun who founded the first Cenacolo in Italy.  This facility is in Medjugorje, Bosnia-Hercegovina, but is written in Italian, nonetheless.

A Loving Mother

Image of Mother Elvira and her
message written in three languages:
Italian, Croatian, and English.

   We went to Mass at 10 o'clock this morning, as we do most mornings. Later that afternoon we took a bus to the Cenacolo Community around 1:15 P.M.  The Medjugorje Cenacolo Community was established by an Italian nun named Sister Elvira who is often referred to as Mother Elvira. Perhaps the reason that she is frequently called "Mother" Elvira is due to the genuine compassion and concern that she extends to all those who come to her facilities, just like a loving mother with open arms.  Her message to all those who enter the residential community is, "True liberty is living the faith, it's letting the Holy Spirit, which lives within us, act; it's letting it free us from the slavery of sin, from the prison, and from the chains that come from our mind that suffocate our conscience.  Let God enter and live within you, because what you are seeking is Him."

Stone near the entrance to the residence at Comunita Cenacolo is written in Italian and reads "Field of Life".  The word "Medjugorje" is written across the center of the stone.  You will notice that there is no "j" after the "d" because the "dj" sound is written with a line through the D in Croatian to represent that sound. 

An inscription on the wall in the
auditorium  of Comunita Cenacolo is
written in Italian.  It reads
"Holy Mother of God, pray for us".

   I am not certain when the Medjugorje community was opened, but the first Comunita Cenacolo was opened in Italy in 1983.  Mother Elvira felt a calling and saw a need to help the modern poor:  the disillusioned youth who lived a desperate and empty life and relied on alcohol and substance abuse to find fulfillment and meaning in their lives.  Her approach to turning around the lives of these young people was a simple, disciplined, family style of life based upon St. Benedict's rule of prayer and work ("ora et labora").

Young men in the program at
Comunita Cenacolo speak to
the pilgrims of their continued
recovery from substance abuse.

   Two young men spoke to us about their successes and struggles to live an addiction-free life.  One was from Boston, the other was from Serbia. They each told us their personal stories to overcome drugs and alcohol.  The young men stated that no one made them stay, but that they were inspired by the others around them in the community, including Mother Elvira who prayed novenas on their behalf.  The young man from Boston recalled seeing other young men kneeling in the chapel reciting the rosary. They were experiencing a serenity and a purpose that he didn't have at that time.  He also told us how Mother Elvira renewed the family and brought support, love, healing, faith, and an encounter with Christ and the Blessed Mother.  These were experiences which he had not encountered during his many years of substance abuse. Both men characterized their stay at Comunita Cenacolo with true friendship, sacrifice, and faith in Christ and the Blessed Mother.

Pilgrims listen to the young men's testimonials.

   The spirituality at Comunita Cenacolo is Christ and Marian-centered.  The young men explained how the day begins at 6 o'clock in the morning with the recitation of the rosary in the chapel.  All members also have jobs in the community after breakfast.  These responsibilities include making bread, cleaning the house, doing masonry work, gardening, woodworking, making rosaries, etc.  According to the young men, by the end of the day, much has been accomplished, much has been learned, the rosary has been recited, and the Gospel
has been shared.

   I've read that there are several Comunita Cenacolo initiatives all over the world.  The success rate of the young men or young women entering the community houses that Mother Elvira has set up is astonishing!  93% of those going through the Comunita Cenacolo program never abuse drugs and alcohol again.

   There was no Adoration this evening so some pilgrims climbed up Apparition Hill again, others went to confession, still others walked over to the Risen Christ.  Some went to the Croatian Mass to pray.